Orchard Has the Perfect Gift for Every Kind of Dad

We know your Dad is far from ordinary, so when it comes to gifting, don’t settle for just anything. At Orchard Supply Hardware, we’re here to help you pick out that perfect gift he’ll be talking about for years to come.

Igloo Trailmate Journey Cooler (70 qt.)

For the all-terrain, all-the-time kind of Dad.
This baby has oversized wheels and stands up to any conditions. With a butler tray, cup holders, bottle openers and a mobile device stand, this cooler couldn’t be, well, cooler. And best of all, it’ll keep everything cold as ice for four days – perfect for a Father’s Day camping trip!
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Traeger Tailgater Grill

For the gourmet grill master kind of Dad.
Nothing will get him more fired up than this sleek little grill equipped with an LED display controller. Fuel his grilling desires with pure hardwood pellets and an electric auto-start ignition. But we have to warn you, with its foldable legs and compact size, Dad may just try to take this grill with him everywhere he goes.
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Wine Barrel Fire Pit

For the Dad who take his drinks seriously.
Your Dad is truly unique, much like his drink of choice. Give him the perfect place to enjoy his favorite wine, craft beer or aged whiskey with this rustic fire pit. But it’s not all for show – this fire pit has a stainless steel burner and is gas operated with impulse ignition. Cheers to that!
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Adirondack Chairs

For the Dad who knows how to kick back.
Add the finishing touch to Dad’s favorite space – the patio. Adirondack chairs harken back to the America of yesterday, reminding Dad of simpler times. Let him wind down and maybe even find a new spot for his afternoon naps with chairs that say “comfy” and “manly” all at once.
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Napa Valley Water Fountain

Napa Valley Water Fountain
For the peace-and-quiet loving Dad.
Your Dad works hard, and he deserves to have a peaceful getaway. Give him the gift of relaxation with this beautiful running water fountain. Bonus points if he likes bird watching. Show Dad how much you appreciate him with his own little retreat only a few feet out the back door.
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If you have a special Dad in your life, it’s time to remind him how much he means to you. Stop by your local Orchard Supply Hardware and we’ll help you find that perfect gift. And to all you dads out there, Happy Father’s Day.

May not be available in all stores. See your local store for details.

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Make your own raised garden bed

Raised Garden Bed

By using raised garden beds, you can grow herbs, flowers, and vegetables almost anywhere you want. With a nice flat location, the right materials, and a few feet of space, you can have a garden in the perfect spot for sun, shade, and aesthetics.

There are plenty of advantages, too. For example, elevated garden beds can lengthen your growing season. Plants tend to grow a little bit easier since the soil in a raised bed is less compacted, and if the plants have an easier time growing, then they usually have a higher yield. And gardening with a raised bed can be much easier on your knees and your back than stooping over and kneeling on the ground.

Raised bed gardens sound amazing, right? We think so, too.

Now here’s the best part: They’re super easy to make. The directions below are for a raised bed that’s about 4-ft x 8-ft, and holds about 32-cu ft of soil (give or take) but you can make yours any size that fits your needs.


✓ Four 1-in x 6-in x 8-ft boards (side rails)

✓ Four 1-in x 6-in x 4-ft boards (head rails)

✓ Four foot-long 4×4 posts

✓ Four 2-in x 2-in x 18-in stakes

✓ Deck screws

✓ Planting soil


✓ Drill

✓ Shovel

✓ Safety gear (gloves, eyewear, etc.)

Raised Garden Bed Overview

Raised Garden Bed Overview

  • 1. First, build the side walls. On flat ground, line up the long side of one of the foot-long 4×4 posts perpendicular to the short edge of a side rail so that it makes an L-shape. Fasten them together with the deck screws. Repeat with another post on the other edge of the side rail.
  • 2. Next attach another side rail piece above the first one so that you have a foot-high wall with the posts at the edges (make sure everything’s neatly lined up!) Repeat to build a second wall.
  • 3. Now, let’s build the head walls. Stand the side walls upright with the posts on the outside of where you want the bed to go. Fasten the head rails to the posts with more deck screws to complete the frame. Again, take care to make sure everything lines up right.
  • 4. Adjust the bed frame so that it’s level and in the position you want. If you have to move it or make adjustments, make sure the angles are still lined up.
  • 5. Finally, reinforce the walls by placing a stake at the midpoint on the outside of each of the walls. Hammer the stakes into the ground so that they’re even with the top of the garden bed, then secure them with deck screws.

And that’s all there is to it! Pat yourself on the back, fill the bed with soil, and then tag us in your picture with #MyOSHProject

Refresh Your Landscaping in Only Two Days. We Show You How.

Making over your landscaping doesn’t take long at all. You can do it in a weekend if you plan your days ahead.

Day One: Prep

First, you’ll need to clear your planting beds. If you’re completely redesigning your landscaping, the only thing left should be the dirt. Bushes, flowers, weeds, all of it has to go into the yard cart and out to the street.

Touch up the borders of your landscaping beds with an edger, or draw all new ones with a hoe and shovel. Make sure the lines are very clear. Garden edging is a great way to keep your garden beds and your lawn separated, but if you forego it we suggest marking the boundaries with planting flags {gallery} until the project is completely finished.

Garden Bed Prep

Luster Leaf Rapitest pH Soil Tester & pH Meter
Luster Leaf Rapitest pH Soil Tester
Luster Leaf Rapitest pH Meter

Use a test kit to see what you should use to balance out your soil. One of the greatest things about garden beds is that you get to really control what goes into your soil. That’s a huge advantage when it comes to things like fertilizers and amendments.

Ideally you’ll have balanced ph, and your soil will be high in nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium. Some plants require more acidic soil, so be sure to check the needs of what you’re choosing to plant. Then head to your neighborhood store and grab the fertilizer that fills in the gaps in your soil’s mix.

Scatter your amendments over the soil, then turn them in with a garden fork (literally stick the fork in and try to turn the dirt over) a few times, and water it. Try to keep the bed fluffy and loose if you can. Loose soil makes it easier for plants to grow large, strong roots and to establish themselves.

Let your landscaping beds settle overnight, and get some rest.

Day Two: Planting.

Good landscaping embraces and accentuates your home, making the grounds an extension of the living area and vice-versa.

Place evergreen shrubs close to your exterior walls. They’re the ones that are going to be around all year, so you can use them to permanently accent a feature, or soften the impact of anything you don’t currently love about the exterior your home.

Remember, evergreen doesn’t mean a tree that grows spiky leaf-needles. It means a plant that doesn’t lose its leaves in the winter. So it’s not just cypress, juniper, and pine. A lot of flowering plants fall into this category, too.

Some of our favorite evergreen shrubs are mock orange and heavenly bamboo, but the Nursery at your neighborhood store will have a wide selection of plants that will thrive in your area.

Mexican Mock Orange
Mexican Mock Orange

Pro Tip:

For a container garden that looks like it was put together by a professional, mix a “thriller,” a ”filler,” and a “spiller.” The thriller is the main attraction, the showboat of the pot. It’s usually tall and colorful. The filler is there to support the thriller, and to add mass to the container. It’s usually bushy. The spiller flows over the container edges to soften them, and to connect the pot to its location.

Shrubs are also a great choice for lining walkways and for framing other focal points like pergolas, benches, and fountains. You can plant them directly in ground, or you can put them in containers. Planters and containers make it easier to change the way your landscaping is set, by changing the way the eye moves around the yard.

For smaller flowering plants, you have a few options: Annuals, perennials, and groundcovers.

Annuals go from seed to flower and back in one year. They’re usually used to give garden beds some variety, since their life cycle is so short. You can have pansies one year and marigolds the next.

Perennials live longer than 2 years, and bloom seasonally. Some of them keep their leaves over winter, and some don’t. Some die every winter, then pop up again year after year in the same spot. Use them as dependable seasonal fixtures, and accent them with annuals.

Groundcovers are plants that creep quickly to fill in open spaces, and form dense mats that choke out weeds. Some of them bloom, but the ones that don’t bloom still grow so tightly that they can make a statement with color. You can plant them around larger perennials and shrubs to fill in any gaps. They’re also ideal for places where grass doesn’t (or shouldn’t) grow, like under trees and between stepping stones.

Ground cover varities
Ground cover varities

No matter what you choose, keep this rule in mind: Plant in masses. Mass planting your colorful flowers and groundcovers can refresh your landscape’s feel immediately, because big swaths of the same color, texture, or shape make a bold statement.

When you’re ready to get dirty, lay out all the plant containers to get a feel for what it’ll be like to have them in place. We always plant from large to small, to save time tiptoeing around the tulips later. Start with the biggest shrubs and move out from them, placing smaller plants as you go.

Mulch ground cover
Mulch ground cover

The last addition to your landscape should be wood. Not, say, a giant driftwood log you found on the beach (though that would be very cool, and in no way are we saying don’t do that if you can figure out how to get it home) but wood chips, bark, and mulch. It’s a low-maintenance ways to discourage weeds and keep moisture closer to the ground. Finish off by using it to fill in any gaps between plants, and define the borders of your new garden beds.

Now sit back, grab a drink, and take a look at that beautiful view.

#MyOSHProject: Air Plant Displays Two Ways

Air plants are the kind of greenery that even a neglectful gardener can love. These bromeliads get all the water and nutrients they need through specialized leaves. And since they come in an array of interesting shapes and colors, they add easy-care (and living!) architectural elements for a variety of projects. We’ll help you get started with a few ideas. When you’re ready to get started, find everything you need at your neighborhood Orchard Supply Hardware store.

How to make a Tillandsia Stand

Air Plant in a Tillandsia Stand
Air Plant Tillandsia Stand


Step 1
Take a 2-in x 2-n piece of bass hobby wood and cut into 2-in squares. Hint: You can get this done at the Workbench

Step 2
Cut copper wire to desired length.

Step 3
Drill a hole slightly larger than the size of the copper wire three-quarters of the way through each wood block.

Step 4
Fill each hole with the E600 glue and push in the copper wire. Remember to wipe off excess glue.

Step 5
Use the pliers to coil the copper wire at the top.

Step 6
Place an air plant inside the coil and you now have an artful addition to a table or shelf.


Get all your cutting done at our Workbench! We custom cut wood, wire, glass, rope, chain, fabric and much more!

Get creative and add a splash of paint. You have almost endless color choices with Benjamin Moore.

How to make a wall hanging air plant

Wall hanging air plant display
Wall hanging air plant display


Step 1
Take a piece of 2 x 4 wood or similar and have it cut to the size you desire.

Step 2
After paint dries, drill a hole diagonally through each top corner so that the exit point is on either side of the wood.

Step 3
Cut a 20-in piece of twine and loop through holes, making a knot on both ends.

Step 4
Use the E600 glue to attach the handle pull in the desired spot.

Step 5
Place an air plant inside the handle. Your living artwork is ready to hang!

Keeping your air plant happy

Easy care does not meant that you can ignore air plants. Just remember to give them:

  • Constant air circulation.
  • Some moisture. The best way to water an air plant is to submerge it in a dish of water for 12 hours. Air plants only take up as much water as they need, so you won’t overwater by doing this. Do this every 2 weeks.
  • Protection from full sun.
  • Protection from temperatures colder than 45 degrees

Get an Amazing Lawn This Summer…It All Starts Right Now

Ah, summer. Long days, cold drinks, and the perfect lawn under your bare feet. All that starts right now, with spring lawn care. Here’s our super-secret how-to for the perfect lawn.

If your lawn is looking a little patchy, it might be time to overseed it. No, that doesn’t mean putting way too much seed on your lawn. It means we’re going to put new seed over the grass that’s already there, to fill in the blank spots.

Before we get started, let’s go over some basics:

  • Read all the directions before starting a project, or using a new product. You want to have a good idea of what you’re doing before you start.
  • Be sure you’re wearing the right clothes including proper safety gear like safety glasses and earplugs if you plan to use trimmers, edgers, or any other outdoor power equipment. Remember your gloves.
  • Make sure your yard is clean. Clear out any leaves, twigs, branches, and thatch. You can use a leaf blower for the larger debris, but you should finish with a rake to loosen up and level out the top layer of soil.
  • Use the right seed types for your region. Don’t know what kind of seed you should use? Your neighborhood store {link to store finder} will have the right types for your area.

Once you’ve got everything, it’s time to get started. First, mow your lawn on a short setting (under 3-in), and bag the grass cuttings. We’re going to use them a little later.

Next, a step most people skip: Aeration. Aeration is even important in years you’re not overseeding. It helps oxygen get to the root of all those plants.

Mowing and aerating.
Mowing and aerating.

Remember, your lawn isn’t one big plant, it’s a bajillion tiny ones. Each and every one of them needs oxygen. You can aerate your lawn by yourself with a hand aerator or you can rent an aeration machine.

Now here’s the first secret trick. When you’ve finished your aeration, mulch your old grass trimmings back onto the lawn.

Earlier, when we mowed the lawn short, we made it easier for the seed to get through the grass and to the ground. Now we’re using the grass cuttings as a base mulch layer for the new seeds. It’ll hold moisture around them and help them grow. And since we just aerated, there are convenient holes all over your lawn, just waiting to be filled.

Rotary and hand held seed spreaders.

Now it’s time to seed. You can use a hand broadcast spreader , to spread grass seeds in a smaller yard, or a rotary spreader {link to gallery}, for a larger one. Be sure to adjust your spreader to the setting suggested in your seed’s instructions. Overcrowding your seeds makes them compete for food, water, and oxygen, and can lead to patchy growth. That’s pretty much the opposite of what we’re trying for.

Once you’ve seeded, water and wait for it to absorb. Now water again. In the ten days or so after re-seeding, you’ll want to water 2-3 times a day, for 5 minutes or so each time. Proper hydration, at the right time, is the key to a healthy lawn.

Sprinkler Timer – See More

During spring and summer, grass needs about 1-in of water per week for ideal growth. Depending on where you live, a lot of that could be taken care of by rain. Take that into consideration when you set your sprinkler output, because too much water could drown your seeds, or wash them away.

Water daily, in the early morning. Between 4 and 10 a.m. if at all possible. There are a ton of solutions for automatic watering, so don’t worry about somehow fitting it into your morning before you finish your coffee. Some timers even have weather delay functions, so you can pause your watering schedule for a few days when you’re expecting rain.

How to test your sprinkler output

Scatter some pie tins around your lawn, and turn your sprinklers on for a cycle. Ignore any funny looks from the neighbors. When you’re done watering, measure how much fluid is in each tin to know how many inches your lawn gets per watering, and if it’s watering evenly.

Now, let’s talk about crabgrass and dandelions. They are the enemy.

Crabgrass should be controlled with a pre-emergent herbicide to stop them before they even get going.

There’s really no bad time in the spring to use a pre-emergent, except when you’ve just seeded your lawn. Most pre-emergents kill grass just as easily as they kill weeds, so wait until you’ve mowed any new grass four times before applying it. If you’re not re-seeding this year, use a fertilizer with a crabgrass preventer and you’ll feed your lawn at the same time as destroying those nasty weeds.

Dandelions—and most other broadleaf weeds—have to be handled with a post-emergent herbicide after they start to grow. But there’s good news about that.

Unlike pre-emergent herbicides, there are special products that target the dandelion, and let the grass get off scot-free. They can be applied without harming your lawn at all, and they kill the taproot. If you don’t kill the root, you have to dig the whole thing if you want to to make sure it won’t come back.

And of course, once your grass starts growing, you have to cut it. But don’t pull the choke yet. Step one for the perfect trim is servicing your lawn mower.

Change the oil, buy new gasoline, lube the moving parts, and clean up any old messes. You should also have the lawn mower blades sharpened (which we can do at The Workbench) and the engine checked (we can do that, too! Ask at customer service).

In terms of grass length, try to keep your lawn right around 3-in tall. The longer it gets, the easier it is for pests to hide in there. If it’s too short, it won’t be able to absorb all the nutrients it needs.

And never cut your grass when it’s wet. It’s bad for your lawn and bad for your mower, too.

That’s it for spring. Easy, right? And it’ll pay off later this summer, in the form of bare feet and happy toes.